Skara Brae, Brodgar and St Magnus

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Going back 5000 years to Skara Brae, a unique Neolithic village, was fascinating.

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Around the central hearth are the stone bed areas and a stone dresser or cupboard for display and storage.

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Each bed has its own cubby hole too. I was reminded of the trulli in Puglia.

Dan has got used to Frances’ haircut now

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There is an excellent replica you can go inside and a very informative museum

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Afterwards we went into the Laird’s house, an airy mansion where generations of Orkney gentry lived off their tenant farmers.

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And discovered Skara Brae when it got exposed after a storm in the 1850s.

They have Captain Cook’s ship’s dinner service here!

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Then on to Brodgar stone circle. Very impressive, timeless and beautiful- a remarkable location on the isthmus of two inland seas.

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There are larks everywhere and barrow mounds nearby.

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We also visited Stenness standing stones

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and their nearby village – the houses were less well preserved than Skara Brae

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But this ram was pretty formidable!

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Lunch at Kirkwall and a look inside the huge St Magnus Cathedral founded in 1137.

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The red stone is warm, solid and friendly looking; Romanesque arches and galleries make the heavy stone seem light and airy.

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There are lots of old 17th century gravestones that have been moved to the sides for display. We enjoyed reading the inscriptions- some with rhyming couplets.

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The memorial to Polar explorer John Rae shows him enjoying a well-earned rest!

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The old town hall in Kirkwall is also very fine

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Another lovely sunny day with curlews, oyster-catchers and black-headed gulls on Scapa beach.

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